SECRETS OF KUTCH


Amitabh Bachchan, in a famous Gujarat Tourism ad says “Kutch nahin dekha toh kuch nahi dekha.” The legendary Bollywood icon couldn’t have made a truer statement.
A remarkable region in the northwestern part of this vibrant state, Kutch packs in a culture, topography and a way of life that is one of a kind. Bhuj, the Kutchi capital of yore, gets the maximum attention from the world. But, that’s not what this blog is about. Our trip to Bhuj made us privy to well-kept secrets of the locals that not many outsiders know of!

#1 The Great Rann of Kutch


rann of kutch
The stunning Rann of Kutch


Easily the most well known secret, the massive salt marsh of the Thar Desert is the Big B of Kutch. An hour and a half’s drive from Bhuj, it can be accessed through a hamlet called Dhordo. But before that, you have to stop at the Police Station in Bhirandiyara with a photocopy of your ID proof to get a permit to visit the largest salt desert in the world. Of course, it comes at a price of Rs. 250 for two. The White Rann changes moods as per the time of the day. Go there in the morning and it is gently waking up, the afternoon makes it merciless, the sunset calms it down and the moon makes its beauty glow.

#2 Dholavira

Located about 250 kilometres from Bhuj, Dholavira gained prominence when the ASI discovered remnants of the Indus Valley Civilization here. Locally known as Kotada timba, this site contains ruins of one of the five most prosperous Harappan cities. Research shows that this place was inhabited in 2650 BCE and slowly began to decline after about 2100 BCE.
Read more: End of the World at the White Rann of Kutch

#3 Kala Dungar


kala dungar secret of kutch
A jackal having a meal prepared by priests


There have been many legends about the highest point in Kutch. The name, Kala Dungar or the Black Mountain is in stark contrast to the White Rann. It is here that you get spectacular views of the Great Rann from Sunset Point. Be careful though as it gets awfully windy on top; so much so that it walking becomes a tad bit difficult. But more famous than Kala Dungar is the Dattatreya Temple for the jackals fed by the temple priest at noon every day. There is a bhojnalaya too that brings people from all walks of life to eat a meal together, free of cost. Washing the utensils you eat in is the only thing asked of you here.

#4 Flamingo City

The more adventurous travellers go 10 kilometres beyond the Kala Dungar to enter a true saline desert that makes up part of the Kutch Desert Wildlife Sanctuary. No, it’s not the search of a more spectacular desert than the Great Rann of Kutch that takes them there. In fact, it is the flamingos that get attention here. Termed the Flamingo City, this world famous nest is the only place in India where flamingos congregate to breed regularly.

#5 Hodko


hodko secret of kutch
 Hodoko - Isn't it pretty?


The women of the village Hodko hold a mysterious charm. They are both beautiful and hardworking but are vary of coming in front of the camera. We came here in the afternoon only to realize that it is nap time till 4 pm. So, we had to wait to interact with them. We met a young girl of marriageable age called Sona who was busy making gorgeous embroidered garments for her wedding trousseau. The Harijan Vaas Basarbura lets you see how life goes by in this clean hamlet.

#6 Than Monastery

A 60-kilometre drive from Bhuj will take you to the soothing environs of the Dhinodhar Hill - a dormant volcano that is also a revered tourist and pilgrimage spot. It houses the Dharmanath Temple that was made to pay homage to Dharmanath who stood on his head for 12 long years as penance for a wrong he had done. The god begged him to stop and he obliged but on the condition that the first place he looks at becomes barren. That’s how the Rann of Kutch is believed to have been born. He also founded the Kanphata (slit-ears) monastic order. The Than Monastery belongs to this sect.

#7 Nirona


nirona secret of kutch
Taking the Rogan Art legacy forward!


The locals of Nirona complain that their humble village has been ignored by the government middlemen. So much so that it is hard to find billboards advertising this hub of different and unique art forms like Rogan Art, Copper Bell and Lacquer. The artisans here are very supportive of each other’s work and will be more than happy to personally escort you to your destination. The likes of Amitabh Bachchan and Sanjay Leela Bhansali form Nirona’s esteemed clientele.

#8 Mandvi

A one and a half hour’s drive from Bhuj gets you to Mandvi, a beach city and a prominent municipality of the Kutch region. Naturally the beautiful seashore is popular with tourists who are keen to relax and unwind. However, it is the 400-year-old ship building industry that enjoys celebrity status here. Originally started by the Kharva community, ship building can be witnessed even today. A special mention to the Wind Mills Project running on the beach that enjoys being Asia’s first, founded in 1983.

#9 Bhujodi​

Due to its close proximity to Bhuj, Bhujodi is perhaps the most popular of all the villages in the area. Some 1200 craftsmen from the Vankar community work here in textile and handicraft units. You get the opportunity to meet weavers, block printers and tie-dye artists and inquire about their craft. Be nice and they might just let you watch them at work.

#10 Sumbrasar

Geographically close to Nirona, Sumrasar became famous thanks to a British woman called Judy Trader. She first came to Kutch 30 years ago and fell in love with it. Since then, she resides in Sumbrasar and runs Kala Raksha Trust, an initiative to promote local art. While here, enjoy a tete-a-tete with her and believe you me, Kutch will never be the same afterwards!

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